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"Mauka and makai" is how Hawaiians give directions: mountain-side or ocean-side of wherever you are
The hazards are why the beach stays empty enough to look like this
Alex strips the color
One wave peeling clean
Surface Hurricane Ridge "Mauka and makai" is howPismo, on California's Central Coast, is what a working surf town looked like before they were cleaned up wide brown sand, an old wooden pier, a beach you can still drive onto at Oceano just south. Jeremy shot this on a day when the surf was too heavy to ride: a tight crop on the lip and the foam, dark water curling against bright white. The wave doesn't get to be a landscape. It gets to be a shape.
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